Dealing with acne can be frustrating, especially when you’re unsure what is causing your acne. Understanding the underlying causes of acne is the first step toward finding an effective treatment and regaining control of your skin.
Whether you’re experiencing mild breakouts or more severe forms of acne, this guide will help you understand the root causes of acne, types of acne, and the best topical treatments to keep your skin clear and healthy.
How Acne Develops
Acne occurs when your skin’s pores become clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria. Here’s a step-by-step break down:
- Excess Sebum Production: your skin produces an oily substance called sebum. Hormonal changes or other factors can cause too much to be produced, leading to clogged pores.
- Dead Skin Cells Accumulation: if your skin doesn’t shed dead skin cells effectively, they can mix with excess oil and clog your pores.
- Bacteria Growth: C.acnes bacteria thrives in the environment above, leading to inflammation.
- Inflammation: this inflammation leads to the formation of pimples, blackheads, or cysts., depending on the severity.
Influencing Factors in Acne
Several factors can contribute to the development and worsening of acne. These include:
1. Hormones: hormonal fluctuations are the most common cause of acne, especially during puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, or when starting or stopping hormonal birth control. Increased androgen levels stimulate sebaceous glands, leading to excess oil production.
2. Genetics: if your parents struggled with acne, there’s a higher chance you will too. Genetics plays a major role in how your skin reacts to hormonal changes and if you’re acne prone.
3. Diet: while the link between diet and acne is still being studied, some evidence suggests that foods with high glycemic index (such as refined carbs, sugary snack, and drinks) and dairy products can trigger or worsen acne in some people.
4. Stress: stress doesn’t directly cause acne but can trigger the release of a hormone (cortisol) which worsens excising acne.
5. Skincare and Makeup Products: pore-clogging (comedogenic) ingredients in skincare or makeup products can clog your pores and worsen acne.
6. Medications: some medications, such as steroids, birth control pills, and lithium can influence hormone levels and trigger acne.
7. Environmental Factors: pollution, humidity, and even tight clothing or hats can trap sweat, and aggravate your skin leading to breakouts.
Types of Acne
Understanding the types of acne, you have is important for finding the most effective treatment. Acne can be categorised into two main types: non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne.
Non-Inflammatory Acne
- Blackheads: open comedones that form when a pore is clogged with oil and dead skin cells.
- Whiteheads: closed comedone that occur when the pore is completely blocked with sebum and dead skin cells. This creates a small, white lump on the skin.
Inflammatory Acne
- Papules: small, red raised bumps that occur when a clogged pore becomes infected but doesn’t have a visible pus-filled head.
- Pustules: similar to papules but contain pus. They appear as inflamed red bumps with a white or yellow center.
- Nodules: large, painful bumps deep under the skin’s surface. They form when clogged pores become inflamed, and they often require medical treatment to prevent scarring.
- Cysts: the most severe form of acne. These painful, pus-filled lumps form deep beneath the skin and are prone to causing scarring. Cystic acne often requires treatments from a dermatologist.
Topical Treatments for Acne
Topical treatments are often the first line of defence when it comes to treating your acne. They target the bacteria, reduce inflammation, and help prevent clogged pores. Here are some of the most effective topical ingredients:
1. Benzoyl Peroxide
- How it works: kills the bacteria that causes acne and reduces inflammation.
- Best for: inflammatory acne like papules and pustules.
- Usage tips: it can be drying, so start with a lower concentration (2.5% – 5%) and use a moisturizer after.
Recommended Products:
- Neutrogena Rapid Clear Stubborn Acne Cleanser.
- La Roche-Posay Duo Dual Action Acne Treatment.
2. Salicylic Acid
- How it works: beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that penetrates the pores to dissolve excess oil, exfoliate dead skin cells, and prevent clogging.
- Best for: blackheads, whiteheads, mild acne.
- Usage tips: start with a lower concentration (0.5%-1%) to minimize irritation. Gradually increase if your skin tolerates it well.
Recommended Products:
- Paula’s Choice Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant.
- Isispharma Teen Dern Gel.
3. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
- How it works: AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid exfoliate the skin, helping to prevent clogging, improve skin texture, and fade acne marks.
- Best for: mild acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots) and uneven skin tone.
- Usage tips: start with a low concentration, use AHAs in moderation if you have sensitive skin, to avoid over exfoliation.
Recommended Products:
- Pixi Glow Tonic (5% Glycolic Acid).
- Isispharma Glyco A Medium peeling.
4. Retinoids (Retinol, Adapalene)
- How it works: increase cell turnover, prevents pore clogging, and reduces inflammation.
- Best for: treating and preventing all types of acne, reducing dark spots, and minimizing fine lines.
- Usage tips: use at night, and always wear a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 during the day.
Recommended Products:
- Differin Gel (Adapalene 0.1%).
- SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5.
5. Azelaic Acid
- How it works: has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
- Best for: mild to moderate acne, reducing post-acne marks (dark spots).
- Usage tips: suitable for daily use, works well in combination with other acne treatments.
Recommended Products:
- Naturium Azelaic Topical 10%.
- Isispharma Teen Derm A.Z.
6. Sulphur
- How it works: absorbs excess oil and has antibacterial properties.
- Best for: mild to moderate acne.
- Usage tips: use sulphur-based treatments as a spot treatment to reduce inflammation and clear pimples quickly.
Recommended Products:
- Neutrogena Stubborn Acne Spot Drying Lotion.
- Mario Badescu Drying Lotion.
7. Niacinamide
- How it works: anti-inflammatory and regulates oil production.
- Best for: all types of acne, especially inflammatory acne.
- Usage tips: suitable for daily use, works well in combination with other acne treatments.
Recommended Products:
- Naturium Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2%.
- Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster.
Remember, it’s essential to introduce products gradually, and give them time to work. Most acne treatments need at least 4 – 6 weeks to show significant improvement.
When to Seek Professional Help
If over-the-counter treatments aren’t effective, or if you’re experiencing severe or cystic acne, consult with a dermatologist. They can prescribe stronger treatments, including:
- Prescription – strength topical treatments.
- Oral antibiotics.
- Hormonal treatments (for women).
- Isotretinoin (for severe, resistant acne).
When choosing a treatment, consider your skin type and the severity of your acne. It’s best to start with milder treatments and gradually increase strength if needed.
In addition to topical treatments, maintaining a consistent skincare routine, managing stress, and paying attention to your diet can all contribute to clearer skin.
Don’t be discouraged if you need to try a few different approaches before finding what works best for you.
