If you are starting out your skincare journey, the idea of putting an “acid” on your face might sound scary. These aren’t the scary, chemistry lab corrosive acids you might be imagining. Skincare acids are powerful, transformative ingredients that can take your skincare routine to the next level. In this blog post, I’m breaking down the basics, and helping you figure out how to incorporate these powerful ingredients into your skincare routine safely and effectively. With the right knowledge, skincare acids can become your skin’s best friend. Ready to dive in?
What Are Skincare Acids
Skincare acids are a category of skincare active ingredients used in various products to exfoliate, brighten, hydrate, and address specific skin concerns. Skincare acids are designed to improve your skin’s texture, tone, and overall health. They work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells allowing for easier exfoliation and revealing fresher, more radiant skin underneath.
Benefits of Skincare Acids
Despite their intimidating name, skincare acids can be your skin’s best friend. Here is why:
- Exfoliation: acids help remove dead skin cells, revealing smoother, brighter skin underneath.
- Acne control: certain acids can help unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and fight acne-causing bacteria.
- Hydration: some acids attract and retain moisture, keeping your skin plump and hydrated.
- Anti-aging: acids can stimulate collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and improve skin texture.
Sounds amazing, right? Let’s get to know some of the most popular skincare acids and what they can do for your skin.
Meet the Skincare Acids: A Beginner’s Guide
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk. They are known for their exfoliating properties, making them a go-to for anyone looking to brighten their complexion. They are great for treating surface-level skin issues.
Popular AHAs:
- Glycolic acid: sourced from sugar cane, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size, allowing it to penetrate deeply and work efficiently.
- Lactic acid: derives from milk, lactic acid is gentler than glycolic acid and perfect for beginners. It hydrates while exfoliating, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
- Mandelic acid: extracted from bitter almonds, mandelic acid has a larger molecular size, meaning it penetrates more slowly and gently. It is ideal for sensitive or acne-prone skin.
Benefits of AHAs:
- Exfoliate dead skin cells.
- Improves skin texture and tone.
- Reduces hyperpigmentation.
How to use AHAs:
Start with a low concentration (5 to 10%) and apply 1 to 3 times a week. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so always follow up with sunscreen during the day.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
BHAs are oil-soluble, making them perfect for oily and acne-prone skin. They can penetrate deeper into the pores, helping to clear out excess oil and debris.
Popular BHA:
- Salicylic acid: derived from willow back. It is a powerhouse for unclogging pores, removing excess oil, and dead skin cells.
Benefits of salicylic acid:
- Reduces acne and blackheads.
- Unclogs pores.
- Has anti-inflammatory properties.
How to use salicylic acid:
Salicylic acid is ideal for oily and acne-prone skin. You can find it in cleansers, toners, and spot treatment. Start with a product containing 1 to 2% salicylic acid and use it a few times a week.
Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs)
PHA’s are the new kids on the block. They work similarly to AHAs but have a larger molecular structure, making them gentle and suitable for sensitive skin.
Popular PHA’s:
- Gluconolactone: a gentle exfoliant that also has moisturizing properties.
- Lactobionic acid: known for its antioxidant properties and the ability to strengthen the skin barrier. Lactobionic acid not only exfoliates but also helps to protect the skin from environmental damage.
Benefits of PHAs:
- Gently exfoliates without irritation.
- Hydrates the skin.
- Suitable for sensitive skin.
Antioxidant-rich Acids
Ascorbic acid (the most popular variant of vitamin C) and ferulic acid are powerful antioxidants that promote cell turnover, brighten the skin, and stimulate collagen production. They are excellent for combating free radical damage and giving your skin a radiant glow.
Benefits:
- Fades hyperpigmentation.
- Brightens skin tone.
- Boosts collagen production.
How to use:
Vitamin C serums can be used daily in the morning. Apply it after cleansing and before sunscreen to enhance its protective benefits.
Hyaluronic acid
A non-exfoliant acid. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, it draws moisture into the skin.
Benefits:
- Deep hydration.
- Plumps the skin.
- Reduces the appearance of fine lines.
How to use:
Hyaluronic acid can be used daily and is suitable for all skin types. Apply it after cleansing and before moisturizing to lock in hydration.
Azelaic Acid
A lesser-known gem that’s fantastic for treating acne and rosacea.
Benefits:
- Reduces redness and inflammation.
- Fights acne-causing bacteria.
- Evens out skin tone.
How to use:
It’s typically available in concentrations of 10 to 20%. Azelaic acid 10% is available in gels and creams over the counter. 15% to 20% azelaic acid requires a prescription. You can apply it once or twice daily, depending on your skin’s tolerance.
Most skincare acids are derived from natural sources and at-home skincare acids are mild and work only on the surface of your skin. They help with exfoliation and achieving a glow. They generally do not require any downtime and most do not actually “peel” your skin.
How to Incorporate Skincare Acids: A Beginner’s Guide
Now that you know the basics, let’s talk about how to incorporate these magical ingredients into your routine. Here are some beginner friendly tips:
1. Start Slow
When introducing acids into your skincare routine, less is more. Start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance.
2. Patch Test
Before applying any new products to your skin, do a patch test. Apply a small amount to a discrete area (like behind your ears) and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs.
3. Listen to Your Skin
Pay attention to how your skin reacts. If you experience irritation or excessive dryness, scale back the usage or switch to a milder acid.
4. Don’t Mix Acids Haphazardly
While some acids can be combined others shouldn’t be used together. For instance, using AHAs and BHAs together can be too harsh, except they are formulated together. A good rule of thumb is to alternate acids on different days.
5. Follow With a Moisturiser
Acids can sometimes be drying, so it’s essential to follow up with a good moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated or balanced.
6. Timing Matters
When you use acids in your skincare routine can impact their effectiveness. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is great in the morning to protect against environmental damage. AHAs on the other hand are best used at night when your skin is in repair mode. Always follow up with sunscreen during the day, as AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
7. Don’t Overdo It
It’s tempting to use multiple acids to achieve faster results, but over exfoliating can damage your skin barrier. Stick to one or two acids in your routine and give your skin time to adjust.
8. Be Patient
Skincare acids can take a few weeks to show results. Consistency is key, so stick to your routine and be patient.
9. Use Sunscreen
Acids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day to protect your skin from UV damage.
Skincare Acids Common Concerns and FAQs
- Can I use acids if I have sensitive skin?
Yes, but choose milder acids like lactic acid or PHAs Start slow and monitor your skin reaction closely.
- Do I need to use acids every day?
No, it is not necessary to use acids every day. Depending on your skin type and tolerance, 2 to 3 times a week can be sufficient to see benefits.
- Can I use acids with other active ingredients?
Be cautious when combining acids with other actives like retinol or vitamin C, as this can increase the risk of irritation. Introduce one ingredient at the time and observe how your skin reacts.
- How long does it take to see results?
Results can vary, but with consistent use, you might start to see improvements in your skin texture and tone within a few weeks.
- Can I use acids during pregnancy?
Some acids, like glycolic acid and lactic acid are generally considered safe during pregnancy, when used at concentrations lower than 10%, but it’s best to consult with your healthcare provider to ensure you are making the safest choices for you and your baby.
- What’s the best acid for acne.
Salicylic acid is excellent for due to its ability to penetrate oily pores and reduce inflammation. Azelaic acid is another good option for treating acne and redness.
Potential Side Effects of Skincare Acids
Despite the fact that skincare acids have a number of advantages, it’s crucial to be aware of potential side effects that may arise when incorporating acids into your skincare routine.
- Skin irritation: this can appear as redness, stinging, itching, or burning especially if you use high concentrations or have sensitive skin.
- Dryness and flaking: when used excessively or if your skin’s moisture barrier is damaged, exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs can result in dryness and flaking.
- Increased Sun Sensitivity: AHAs and retinoic acid / retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. This will increase the risk of sun damage and sunburn.
- Skin purging: some people may experience a temporary “purging” of this skin when using acids such as AHAs, BHAs, ascorbic acid, azelaic acid, retinoic acid / retinol. This happens because acids speed up skin cell turnover, bringing underlying impurities to the surface. It usually clears up in a few weeks, revealing clearer skin.
Choosing the Right Skincare Acid for Your Skin Type
In order to achieve the best result and reduce any potential side effects, it’s crucial to select the proper skincare acid for your skin type. Below are some suggestions from various skin types.
Dry or Sensitive skin
- Hyaluronic acid aids in the relief of dryness by hydrating and plumping the skin.
- PHAs have similar exfoliating properties to AHAs, but PHAs are typically kinder and better suited for sensitive skin.
Recommendations: Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel, Haruharu Wonder Centella 3% PHA Gentle Liquid Exfoliating Serum.
Oily or Acne-prone skin
- Salicylic acid penetrates oil glands, exfoliates inside pores and aids in the management of acne breakouts.
- AHAs like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid exfoliates the skin surface, aid in clearing clogged pores, and improve skin texture.
- Azelaic acid is advantageous for acne-prone skin because it has both exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties.
Recommendations: Isispharma Glyco A Medium peeling, Isispharma Teen Derm A.Z, Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant.
Combination skin
- Mandelic acid is a mild acid that offers exfoliation and is suitable for all skin types including combination skin.
Recommendations: Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant, Naturium Mandelic Topical Acid 12%.
Mature skin
- Retinoic acid, a vitamin A derivative that stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines, and improve skin texture.
- Ascorbic acid, a potent antioxidant that brightens the skin, encourages the production of collagen, and lessens the visibility of fine lines.
Recommendations: Timeless 20% vitamin C + E Ferulic Acid Serum, TruSkin Vitamin C Super Serum Plus.
Hyperpigmented or Uneven skin
- Kojic acid is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation as a result of its ability to inhibit the production of melanin.
- Tranexamic acid helps reduce dark spots and evens out on even skin tone.
Recommendations: Minimalist Tranexamic 3% Face Serum, Reviva Labs Kojic Acid Brightening Créme.
Final Thoughts on Skincare Acids
Skincare acids can be a powerful addition to your skincare routine, offering a range of benefits from exfoliation to hydration. With a little knowledge and careful introduction, you can harness their benefits without fear. Remember, the key is to start slow, listen to your skin, and always protect with sunscreen.
So go ahead, give those acids to try, and watch your skin transform. Here’s to a glowing, confident you!
