Retinoids are hailed as the gold standard in skincare for their remarkable anti-aging and acne fighting benefits. If you’ve been curious about adding retinoids to your routine but feel overwhelmed by the options, you are in the right place.
This guide will walk you through the different types of retinoids, from the weakest to the strongest, and provide helpful tips for adding them to your skincare routine.
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A widely used in skincare. Unlike other skincare actives that work on the top layer of the skin (epidermis), retinoids penetrate as far as the middle layer of the skin (dermis).
Retinoids work by neutralising free radicals, boosting collagen and elastin production, preventing collagen breakdown, and accelerating skin cell renewal.
Retinoids help to plump the skin, minimise appearance of wrinkles & fine lines, even out skin tone, and improve skin texture by unclogging pores, preventing acne & treating acne scarring.
Members of the Retinoid Family
Understanding different types of retinoids can help you choose the right one for your skin type and skin concerns. Here is the breakdown from the weakest to the strongest.
Retinol Esters
Examples: Retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate.
Strength: Weakest
Best for: Sensitive skin, beginners
Retinol esters are the gentlest form of retinoids, making them suitable for those with sensitive skin or anyone new to retinoids. They are found in over-the-counter products and work by converting to retinol in the skin then retinaldehyde and finally retinoic acid (active form). So, retinol esters are less likely to cause irritation. While they are less potent, they still offer anti-aging benefits over time.
Recommendations: La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Serum, Exuviance Professional Evening Restorative Complex.
Retinol
Strength: Mild to moderate
Best for: Anti-aging and acne-prevention
Retinol is one of most popular and widely used forms of retinoids in over-the-counter products. It’s more potent than retinol esters like retinyl palmitate but still gentle enough for most skin types. Retinol promotes cell turnover and boosts collagen production, making it effective for treating fine lines and mild acne. It can take several weeks to months to show visible results.
Recommendations: SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5, La Roche-Posay Redermic Retinol B3 Serum.
Retinaldehyde (Retinal)
Retinaldehyde or retinal is more potent than retinol and converts more efficiently to retinoic acid. It’s effective for treating more stubborn signs of aging and acne. Retinaldehyde is a good option for those who have built tolerance to retinol and are looking for more noticeable results. It is less commonly found in over-the-counter products but is still a great option for those looking for stronger effects without prescription strength.
Recommendations: Lamelle RA Advance Cream, Avène Cleanance Women Soothing Night Care.
Adapalene
Strength: Moderate to strong
Best for: Acne treatment
Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid available both over-the-counter and by prescription. It’s the strongest retinoid available over-the-counter. Adapalene is primarily used to treat acne due to its ability to regulate cell turnover and reduce inflammation. It is less irritating than other prescription retinoids, making it suitable for those with sensitive skin.
Recommendations: Differin Gel, Neutrogena Adapalene Gel 0.1%
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)
Strength: Strong
Best for: Severe acne, advanced anti-aging
Tretinoin also known as retinoic acid is a prescription strength retinoid that works directly on the skin without the need for conversion. It works faster than other weaker retinoids but also has a higher potential for irritation. It requires careful introduction into your skincare routine. Tretinoin is highly effective for treating severe acne, deep wrinkles, and significant sun damage.
Tazarotene
Strength: Strongest
Best for: Severe acne, psoriasis, advanced photoaging
Tazarotene is the strongest retinoid available by prescription. It’s primarily used for treating severe acne and psoriasis, as well as for its potential anti-aging benefits. Due to its strength, its more likely to cause irritation and should be used with care. Tazarotene is typically recommended for those who have not responded well to other retinoids.
Tips for Adding Retinoids to Your Skincare Routine
Introducing retinoids to your skincare routine can yield impressive results, but it’s important to do so carefully to avoid irritation. Here are some tips to help get you started.
1. Start Slow
Begin with a lower strength retinoid like 0.5% retinol or retinyl palmitate, especially if you have sensitive skin or are new to retinoids. Use it once or twice a week to allow your skin to build tolerance to the retinoid.
2. Use A Pea-Sized Amount
A little goes a long way with retinoids. Use a pea-sized amount for your entire face to avoid over application, which can lead to irritation.
3. Apply At Night
Retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. It’s best to apply at night and always include a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher during the day to protect your skin from UV damage.
4. Moisturise Moisturise Moisturise
Retinoids can be drying, so it’s essential to keep your skin hydrated. Apply a gentle, hydrating moisturiser after your retinoid to help lock in moisturise and reduce dryness and flaking.
5. Avoid Mixing with Certain Actives
Be cautious about using other potent actives like AHAs, BHAs and benzoyl peroxide within the same skincare routine as your retinoid. This can increase the risk of irritation. If you want to use these actives, consider using on alternating nights.
6. Avoid Sensitive Areas
Avoid applying retinoids to sensitive areas such as the corners of your mouth and eye area unless your product specifically indicates it’s safe for those areas.
7. Be Patient
Results for retinoids take time. It can take several weeks to months to see significant improvements, so be patient and consistent with your routine.
8. Listen to Your Skin
If you experience significant irritation, redness, or peeling, reduce the frequency of application or switch to a lower concentration. Consult with a dermatologist if needed.
Conclusion
Retinoids are a powerful addition to any skincare routine, offering a wide range of benefits from anti-aging to acne treatment. By understanding the different types of retinoids and how to use them correctly you can achieve healthier, more radiant skin.
Remember, start slow, moisturise well, protect your skin from the sun, and consult a dermatologist if you have any serious concerns.
