When it comes to skincare, alcohols often get a bad rap. You might have heard that alcohols in skincare is to be avoided at all costs. But did you know that not all alcohols are created equal. In fact, some alcohols can be beneficial for your skin. Let’s explore alcohols in skincare, separate the good from the bad, and help you make informed choices for your skincare routine.
Understanding Alcohols in Skincare
Alcohols and skincare are divided into two broad categories: fatty alcohols (the good kind) and simple or drying alcohols (the bad kind). Each type serves different purposes and has distinct effects on your skin.
Simple Alcohols: The Bad Guys
Simple alcohols also known as drying alcohols or short chain alcohols give alcohols in skincare a bad reputation. They include ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol (alcohol denat.) and methanol. These alcohols are quick drying, and are used in products to create a lightweight feel. They also preserve formulations, or to enhance absorption of other ingredients.
Why They Are Considered Bad
- Drying effect: simple alcohols can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to dryness.
- Irritation: by stripping the skin of its natural oils, simple alcohols can cause redness and irritation, particularly for those with sensitive skin or skin conditions like eczema and rosacea.
- Disruption of skin barrier: over time, frequent use of products containing high amounts of simple alcohols can compromise the skin’s protective barrier, making it more susceptible to environmental damage, dehydration, increased sensitivity, and inflammation throughout the skin.
Fatty Alcohols: The Good Guys
On the flip side, fatty alcohols are the unsung heroes in skincare. Derived from natural fats and oils like coconuts and palm oil. These alcohols have a completely different structure and function compared to their simple counterparts. Fatty alcohols used as emollient, thickeners, and stabilisers in skincare formulations help to moisturise and protect the skin. Common fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol.
Why They Are Good
- Gentle: unlike simple alcohols, fatty alcohols are generally well tolerated and non-irritating, making them suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
- Stabilizing: fatty alcohols help improve the texture and consistency of skincare products, ensuring the formulations remain effective and pleasant to use.
- Moisturising: fatty alcohols act as emollients, helping to soften and smooth the skin by trapping moisture.
Navigating Alcohol in Skincare Products
Understanding the role of different alcohols can help you make better choices for your skincare routine.
[Related post: A Simple Guide to Choosing the Best Skincare Products]
Here is a guide to navigating alcohols in skincare products.
1. Read ingredients list carefully
When examining skincare products, look beyond the marketing claims and focus on the ingredient list. Identify which types of alcohol are included and consider their position in the ingredient list. Ingredients are listed in descending order by concentration, so, if a drying alcohol is one of the first ingredients, it’s likely present in a high amount and may cause issues for your skin.
2. Consider Your Skin Type
Your skin type plays a significant role in how your skin reacts to different alcohols. For example,
Oily or Acne-prone Skin: while drying alcohol can provide a matte-finish, help control excess oil and are better tolerated in oily skin, overtime, frequent use can disrupt the skin’s natural barrier leading to irritation and inflammation.
Dry or Sensitive Skin: avoid products with high concentrations of drying alcohols as they can exacerbate dryness and irritation.
3. Look for Balanced Formulations
The presence of simple alcohol isn’t always a deal breaker. In some cases, they serve a functional purpose, such as helping active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively. Formulations where these alcohols are balanced with hydrating and soothing ingredients like glycerin, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid can mitigate potential dryness and irritation. Pay attention to your skin’s response. If you notice a product containing simple alcohols causes dryness, irritation, or breakout, it’s best to discontinue use and opt for products with a gentler formulation.
3. Patch Test New Products
Whenever you introduce a new product into your skincare routine, it’s wise to perform a patch test. Apply a small amount to a discrete area of your skin and monitor for any adverse reactions over 24 to 48 hours. This can help you identify potential irritants and ensure the product is compatible with your skin.
Common Myths About Alcohols in Skincare
Let’s debunk a few common myths surrounding alcohols and skincare.
Myth 1: All Alcohols Are Bad for Your Skin
This is a blanket statement, that simply isn’t true. As we’ve discussed, fatty alcohols are beneficial and can enhance the effectiveness of skincare products. The key is in distinguishing between simple alcohols and fatty alcohols and understanding their role in formulations.
Myth 2: Products With Alcohols Are Always Drying
It’s true that simple alcohols can be drying, many products are formulated with a mix of hydrating ingredients that counteract this effect. Additionally fatty alcohols are inherently moisturising and can actually help to lock in hydration.
Myth 3: Natural Products Never Contain Alcohol
Natural and organic skincare lines sometimes use natural ingredients extracted / distilled with ethanol. Witch Hazel for instance is a natural ingredient that may contain alcohol from its distillation process. Ensure natural ingredients are not extracted with alcohol, an example of alcohol-free witch hazel toner is the Simple Soothing Facial Toner.
Choosing the Right Product for Your Skin
Now that you have a better understanding of the different types of alcohols and their effects on the skin, here are some tips for selecting the right skincare products.
Toners and Serums
Look for toners and serums that feature fatty alcohols alongside hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and botanical extracts like aloe Vera and green tea extract. Avoid toners with high concentrations of simple alcohols especially if you have dry, sensitive skin.
Recommendations: Simple Soothing Facial Toner, Isntree Green Tea Fresh Toner, Balance Active Formula Hyaluronic Acid Deep Moisture Serum, CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum.
Moisturisers and Creams
Opt for moisturisers that list fatty alcohols in the ingredient list. These products will help create a protective barrier on the skin, locking in moisture and providing a smooth non-greasy finish.
Recommendations: CeraVe Ultra-light Moisturizing Gel, Isispharma Teen Derm Hydra.
Sunscreens
Many sunscreens contain fatty alcohols to improve texture and spreadability. Ensure the sunscreen you choose is formulated to be gentle on the skin while providing broad spectrum protection.
Recommendations: Babo Botanicals Sheer Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50, Babo Botanicals Baby Skin Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50.
Cleansers
Cleansers with fatty alcohols can help maintain the skin’s natural moisture balance while effectively removing dirt and impurities. Avoid cleansers with high amounts of simple alcohols which can strip the skin of its natural oils.
Recommendations: CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser, Defferin Gentle Cleanser.
Conclusion: Embrace the Good, Avoid the Bad
Alcohols in skincare aren’t inherently bad, it’s all about understanding which types are beneficial and which can be potentially harmful. Fatty alcohols can be your skin’s best friend, providing much needed moisture and improving product texture. Simple alcohols, when used in moderation and balanced with hydrating ingredients, can also play a row in certain formulations.
By staying informed and making thoughtful choices, you can enjoy the benefits of alcohols in your skincare routine without the drawbacks. Here’s to achieving healthy, radiant skin with a little help from the right kind of alcohols!
