There is no better feeling than a smooth, healthy, and hydrated-looking skin. We all want that dewy, “I just casually drink 12 glasses of water a day” glow. The bad news is, when it comes to choosing your skincare, the sheer number of choices in moisturisers, coupled with the sometimes-confusing label jargon is often enough to make you grab the first thing you see on the shelf and hope that it works. Well, you’re in luck, because I’ve got the ultimate roadmap to help you choose the perfect moisturiser for your skin type and skin concerns.
So, whether you’re battling dry patches, oily skin or just looking to up your skincare game, you’ve come to the right place. As this post is a complete guide to choosing the perfect moisturiser. Get ready to say hello to hydrated radiant skin.
Moisturiser 101
A moisturiser is a cosmetic preparation formulated with emollients that protects and lubricates the skin. Moisturisers hydrate the surface of the skin and help the skin stay hydrated. Their main benefit is that they seal the skin, locking in moisture and nutrients, while protecting the skin from environmental irritants. The point is your skin needs it to stay healthy.
In normal skin, sebum (skin’s natural oil) naturally moisturises the skin. But when your skin produces little sebum, your skin loses water through a process called trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). Using a moisturiser stops water from evaporating preventing dryness.
Depending on the ingredients a moisturiser is formulated with it can repair the skin barrier, and deliver anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and brightening benefits. Treatment moisturisers alleviate discomfort from certain skin conditions such as eczema and other types of dermatitis.
Moisturiser Vs Hydrator
Hydrators restore moisture to the skin while moisturisers restore and seal the moisture in. If your skin is dehydrated and lacks water, you need a hydrator. If your skin lacks oil, you need a moisturiser. Hydrators are usually humectants like aloe vera, glycerin, snail mucin and hyaluronic acid. They usually come as serums, mists, toners, and essences. While moisturisers usually come as oils, gels, lotions, creams, and ointments.
3 Common Classes of Moisturisers
Humectants: bring water to the skin. They hydrate the skin by drawing water from the deepest layers of the skin and the air to the skin’s surface. They also delay water loss from the skin. Humectants include urea, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, snail mucin, aloe vera, lactic acid.
Emollients: make the skin soft. They are usually lightweight oils that soak the skin and fill the gaps between skin cells, making the skin smooth to touch. They strengthen skin barrier by preventing water loss. Emollients include squalene, plant oils, ceramides, cholesterol, colloidal oatmeal.
Occlusives: form a protective coat on the skin surface to prevent water loss. This barrier allows water to go from the deep layers of the skin to the skin’s surface without evaporating. Occlusives include beeswax, petrolatum, lanolin, dimethicone, mineral oil, plant waxes, shea butter.
Benefits of Using a Moisturiser
- Maintains your skin’s hydration levels.
- Reinforces a healthy skin barrier which keeps water in and irritants out.
- Makes and keeps your skin smooth.
- Prevents skin dryness which can feel uncomfortable and itchy.
- Provides a soothing protective film and protects skin from friction.
- Can be formulated with ingredients that combat specific skin concerns like sensitivity, acne, signs of ageing and hyperpigmentation.
The Wonderful World of Moisturisers
There are different types of moisturisers depending on their water to oil ratio.
Ointments
They are formulated as a mixture of water and a higher percentage of oil (80% oil). Ointments are very thick and stay on the top of your skin rather than being absorbed right away. They offer more protection against moisture loss and the elements like cold and dry air. Common ingredients found in ointments include mineral oil and petrolatum.
When to Use: cold, dry winter season. Mostly for body use and for atopic eczema-prone skin.
Skin Type: because it provides a barrier that provides ultra-moisturization, it’s best for dry to very dry skin.
Try: Aquaphor Healing Ointment, Cerave Healing Ointment
Cream
They are an equal parts mixture of water and oil (50% water, 50% oil). Creams are thick and easily absorbed, so they can cover large areas of skin. They also help protect against moisture loss. Common ingredients in creams include shea butter, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin.
When to Use: cold, dry winter months. Mostly for body use but facial creams exist and should be non-comedogenic. They are good as nighttime moisturizers.
Skin Type: dry to very dry skin and for normal skin during harsher winter months. Dry and sensitive skin types can strengthen their skin barrier by using creams.
Try: Cerave Moisturizing Cream, La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer
Lotion
Contain much more water than oil, though some might also contain alcohol. They are much thinner in consistency than creams. Lotions absorb quickly into the skin and leave very little residue/film. Most common ingredients in lotions are glycerin, aloe vera, shea butter.
When to Use: warmer months and high temperatures. Lotions work well for everyday use.
Skin Type: ideal for normal to oily skin because they are lightweight and have low oil concentrations. If you have both oily and sensitive skin, opt for a lotion without any alcohol, fragrances or preservatives that might irritate your skin.
Try: Cerave AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30, Cerave PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion.
Gels
Exclusively water based. Gels usually contain alcohol and cellulose. They are formulated mostly with humectants like hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, glycerin. Gels are a translucent formulation that is non-greasy and non-oily. They hydrate and moisturise without leaving a residue/film. They are easily spread and absorbed.
When to Use: hot and humid summer months. Moisturise twice daily to maintain hydration levels throughout the day.
Skin Type: all skin types except dry and very dry skin.
Try: Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel, Vichy Aqualia Thermal Gel-cream
Oils
Made exclusively from either a single oil or a mixture of oils with oil-soluble ingredients like Vitamins A and C, essential fatty acids, beta-carotene. Oils should be fast absorbing without clogging pores.
When to Use: after applying a humectant or other moisturizer to the skin.
Skin Type: beneficial for all skin types.
Try: Naturium Plant Squalene Face Oil 100%, Bio-Oil Skincare Oil (Natural)
How to Choose the Perfect Moisturiser
Your skin is unique and so should your approach to moisturising. When choosing a moisturiser, consider your skin type and skin condition. Different skin types and skin conditions will demand different actives and types of moisturisers.
The Perfect Moisturiser for Dry Skin
Thicker texture creams and ointments are best for dry skin types. Look for a combination of occlusives, emollients and humectants. Ingredients like oatmeal, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, niacinamide and shea butter are great for dry skin. Avoid too many acids like AHAs and BHAs along with alcohols. If your skin is extremely dry or cracked schedule an appointment with a dermatologist for specialised treatment.
Try: Vaseline Intensive Care Advanced Repair Fragrance-Free, Aveeno Daily Moisturising Lotion
The Perfect Moisturiser for Sensitive Skin
If you have sensitive skin (that is also acne-prone or dry), a mild barrier-repairing moisturiser with soothing and skin-loving ingredients like aloe vera and allantoin would work best for you. You must avoid products that contain fragrances, essential oils, alcohol, witch hazel and dyes. Always opt for non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic moisturisers that are gentle on the skin.
Try: Vanicream Moisturizing Cream, Eucerin Skin Calming Cream
The Perfect Moisturiser for Oily Skin
A soothing light moisturising gel or oil that absorbs quickly into the skin is best for oily skin types. Look for ingredients that help treat acne and blemishes, controls excess sebum, and reduces redness and itchiness caused by breakouts. Ingredients like lactic acid, mandelic acid, tea tree oil, centella asciatica, salicylic acid and azelaic acid.
Try: Versed Dew Point Moisturizing Gel-cream, e.l.f Blemish Breakthrough Acne Calming Water Gel
The Perfect Moisturiser for Combination Skin
People with combination skin will benefit most from moisturisers that are neither too heavy and oily nor too watery. A light to medium weight hydrating lotion should be your go-to. Alternatively, you can use a lightweight lotion or gel moisturiser on oily areas (usually forehead, chin, and nose) and use a heavier cream on other parts of your face.
Try: Byoma Moisturizing Gel-Cream, purity made simple ultra-light moisturizer
The Perfect Moisturiser for Normal Skin
Use a moisturizer that maintains moisture balance. Use a light lotion in the morning and a heavier cream at night. If your skin begins to feel dry, use a thicker cream on damp skin. If your skin begins to produce more oil, try a gel moisturizer.
Try: Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer, Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Face Cream
Depending on your skin condition/concern, the ingredients in your moisturiser will differ. Understanding your skin condition/concern and knowing what desired effect you are trying to achieve aids you in choosing the right skincare product.
When to Apply a moisturiser
- Cleanse your face.
- Apply a toner (optional).
- Apply a treatment product e.g., a serum or prescribed cream.
- Apply a moisturizer (cream, lotion, gel) to your skin, massaging it gently in circular motions and upward strokes.
- Apply a face oil if you are doing double moisturisation.
- Apply sunscreen.
Note: if you skip the toner and treatment/serum steps, make sure to always apply your moisturiser on damp skin. Also, if you use an eye cream, apply it after the serum and before the moisturiser.
In a Nutshell
Moisturisers are the absolute best way to keep your skin looking and feeling its best. You should moisturise daily and if needed twice daily. When it comes to picking the perfect moisturiser, it’s important to know your skin type. Everyone has different needs, so it’s important to figure out your skin needs before you purchase a moisturiser. Don’t forget to build a comprehensive skincare routine that addresses all your skin concerns.
